September 10, 2018
Even with the fanciest skincare or trendiest lipstick, a beauty kit isn’t complete without perfume. What sets it apart from the rest is how it’s much more than a simple beauty product. Perfume has the power to spread a fragrance, elicit a feeling and even transport you back in time. To learn more about the mystery of perfume, we spoke to Luc Berriet, Fine Fragrance, Creative Director and Malavika Kalauny, Creative Fragrance and Formulation Manager at Skinn from Titan to answer everything we had to ask about perfume.
Swirlster: How is perfume created?
Luc Berriet: When we create perfumes, we think of the consumers. What is trendy? Perfumers want to try something new. The process of creating a perfume is a very long one. You can have an idea very quickly but you have to modify, improve, and make it suitable for the consumers. Aside from consumer preferences, it is also imperative to keep in mind the climate the perfume is going to be used in. A lot of international perfumes retailed in India may not be crafted keeping the Indian climate in mind. We have the best of our award-winning perfumers like Alberto Morillas and Harry Fremont working on Skinn perfumes. Since working on Skinn perfumes, they have travelled to India to understand the local climate and lifestyle of the Indian consumer and used their expertise to develop perfumes conducive for Indian conditions and Indian preferences. Then there is the technical part, stability and colors, but that’s more at the end of the process, before we launch.
Malavika Kalauny: For Amalfi Bleu, the attempt was to translate the beautiful Amalfi coast in Italy down to a perfume format. It had to be blue, fresh, marine and everything else blue could stand for. It starts with conceptualization and there’s a lot of back and forth to check whether this is in line with what the customer is going to appreciate. Is it going to work on their skin in the Indian conditions, is it being true to the concept and the brand? Of course, there’s a quality aspect which is woven into it.
Swirlster: What is the difference between body mists, EDT, EDP and parfum?
Luc Berriet: It’s the intensity of perfume. Body mist is usually very lightly perfumed with very low dosage, can be as low as 3 percent. EDT is around 8 to 12 percent in terms of dosage, EDP tends to be between 15 to 18 percent and perfume is around 20 percent. It’s the intensity. If you see body mist, it’s very light, EDT will be stronger, EDP is a step further and parfum is very intense.
Swirlster: What scents are the most popular inspiration when creating fragrances?
Luc Berriet: Each perfume has a new story. You may find some common points with other perfumes. Our job, the way we see it, is to bring something new to the market. For example, we know that floral and fruity notes work well across countries with younger generations.
Malavika Kalauny: For Amalfi Bleu, we wanted to recreate the relaxed and refreshing vibe of the Amalfi coast which became the inspiration behind the perfumes. “Bleu” is the French word for “Blue” which connotes the refreshing vibe of the sea. We know that Indians love green notes in their perfumes, and they can lend freshness to a perfume. Both the perfumes have two distinctive green notes, it’s different for men and women and comes from different ingredients. It ties very well into the whole concept and it translates into freshness. It’s not just one thing that leads the creation, it’s the culmination of different elements that you want to bring into the fragrance.
Swirlster: How does one extend the longevity of perfume when it is worn?
Malavika Kalauny: You must always apply your perfume on your skin. When you wear your perfume in the morning, you can be rest assured that the perfume will last for at least 6 hours. After that, it depends on what condition you have been in – whether you are in an AC environment or in the hot sun. Moreover, after some point of time, you become blind to what you are wearing, so you can’t really smell it on you. The simplest thing to do if you feel you can’t perceive your smell, just reapply it. Another tip is to wear a lotion before wearing the perfume, so the molecules will stick better to your skin. Wear it on moisturized skin or soon after a bath. These small tips and tricks may make it last longer but really it is just perception.
Swirlster: What’s the best method to store perfume?
Luc Berriet: For me, I put them in the fridge because perfumes don’t like lights and heat. Don’t leave it in intense light or temperature.
Malavika Kalauny: And if you can’t do that, just put it in a cool, dry and dark place.